Lyon Lights

Last weekend was the annual Christmas shopping trip to Lyon. After effusive recommendations from lots of people I decided to go during the "Fête des Lumiéres"
It was a wonderful weekend full of delights and surprises, but as a Christmas shopping trip it was a massive fail!
I should have done my homework because I was envisaging something like the Regent Street lights in London, not the spectacular show that used the whole of Lyon centre as a giant canvas.
 It attracts 3 million visitors, which explains why I couldn't find a hotel room anywhere. But staying in a nearby town turned out to be a smart move as cars were banned from the city and rail fares were incredibly cheap.
 Public transport within the city was free.
3 million people take up quite a bit of space! but the atmosphere was superb, very good natured. With building along the banks of both rivers turned into huge works of art, everyone could enjoy the spectacle.
I can't do it justice, but there is an excellent blog here
 http://bonjour-lyon.fr/2012/12/photos-fete-des-lumieres-201
There were massive queues outside every restaurant but friends from Lyon had recommended  "Carnegie Hall" on the outskirts of the city in the old meat market. This is the dining hall decor.
 Look away now if you are not a carnivore!
The large canteen style dining hall with oilcloth on the tables is not glamorous at all, they just concentrate on serving very best quality meat with no frills. It must seat 400 people at least and it was full with latecomers being turned away. The steaks are either rare or bleue (raw?) the service is fast and it all feels a bit overwhelming. But when the food arrives, oh my goodness, a plate of succulent marrow bones followed by the biggest rib steak I have ever seen cooked to perfection. It was a memorable experience.
Their website is here http://www.carnegie-hall-69.com/
I also found time to leave the crowds behind and pop into the textile museum for a couple of hours of peaceful contemplation of their collection of textile wonders.
This fragment of a fish tapestry from coptic Egypt always merits another look. It is from the 3rd century, but I think it is timeless.
 The clothes are fascinating, some of the 18th Century dresses being so tightly laced that they often broke ribs causing the wearer to die from internal haemorrhaging!
The details are just exquisite.
I went to an antique fair the following day and found some wonderful things including some very special clocks.................................

and an excellent framed oil on canvas painting of Provence.
 and this delightful bust of two children.
These are now listed on cherchez-chic
I also bought a lot of delicious dowry linens that I haven't had time to sort through yet.
Now I just need to do my Christmas shopping before it is too late!







































Comments

  1. I would very much like to go to the Puces in Lyon but guess not a good time to go when the festivities are on....the photos look great

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  2. The Puces is quite a way from the centre, so you'd be fine! I love Lyon, as you can probably tell, there is always more to see so always planning the next trip.

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