I wish I had a centime for every time a 'citadin' guest asks me this as they enjoy their Summer break in the mountains and shudder inwardly at the horrors they imagine we must endure in Winter. And to be fair, it was a concern at first, although I was born in a small Yorkshire village, it was a hectic London life that I left to settle here in deepest rural France.
Well, in this village, behind shuttered windows, there is a thrum of activity. While we lose many Summer friends for a while, those that live here all year round have a busy social life. In January it centres around the Galette Des Rois. Every time you meet someone for the first time in the New Year a galette will not be far away.
I wrote about them last year here. But I am proud to tell you that in spite of hosting many of these galette feasts, I haven't tasted a single morsel! I have kept to a sugar and wheat free diet since I was ill last year and feel so well on it that temptation isn't a problem. I do enjoy the get togethers though.
Sam (son) came over for a while after Christmas, another great reason to celebrate, especially as the weather was sunny and quite warm. As the airport run is to Lyon it seemed like a good idea to take a short break when he left. This time lunch was in a 'bouchon' one of the small busy bistrots that are renowned for selling home cooked traditional food. Café Comptoir Abel was a delight!
The interior hasn't changed since it opened and it is wonderful. 'L'Assommoir' by Emile Zola popped into my head as soon as I walked in and I could see Zolas colourful characters, Gervaise, Coupeau, Virginie and others among the customers. I so wish I could paint them! (If you have never read L'Assomoir you are in for a treat, the title doesn't really translate, but set in 19th Century Paris it is a vibrant book that you will never forget).
Bentwood chairs, zinc counters, the original till, mismatched lights, patina and pictures, I can't begin to do it justice. And the food! That can be tricky in Lyon, lots of offal, tripe, andouillette (a sausage made from intestines) glutinous calves head, even the cheese is called cervelle de canut (silk worker's brain). I'm still not brave enough for that, but had calves liver cooked to pink perfection. Sam had quenelles de brochet a kind of fish dumpling made with pike. I did try one years ago and wasn't very impressed, it looked like an anaemic white sausage sitting sadly in some sauce. You can buy them in the supermarkets, uniformly wrapped in trays they don't look very appetizing. But this was a revelation, a kind of long soufflé, light and delicate floating in a creamy sauce with a crispy grilled top. The pike is fresh and delicate.
Bravo Comtoir Abel. The closest I will ever get to time travel.
Well, in this village, behind shuttered windows, there is a thrum of activity. While we lose many Summer friends for a while, those that live here all year round have a busy social life. In January it centres around the Galette Des Rois. Every time you meet someone for the first time in the New Year a galette will not be far away.
Sam (son) came over for a while after Christmas, another great reason to celebrate, especially as the weather was sunny and quite warm. As the airport run is to Lyon it seemed like a good idea to take a short break when he left. This time lunch was in a 'bouchon' one of the small busy bistrots that are renowned for selling home cooked traditional food. Café Comptoir Abel was a delight!
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